Belleville yettwaɛraḍ ɣef uvilu n trisiti, axxam s wexxam

Belleville yettali. Ɣef waya i yesɛa uvilu s tallalt n trisiti azal-is meṛṛa dagi : tettalim isawnen n taddart taqburt war ma tesṛuḥem laẓ-nwen, yerna tesdukklem deg wezgen n wass ixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa ur nezmir ad ten-tesdukklem deg yiwen n ubrid s uḍar. Wander Gourmet tettmuddu-yawen amwanes deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, semmus n yinebgawen ɣer ufella i yal amwanes, seg wexxam ɣer wayeḍ.

Ṭṭfet amkan Wali ssumat

Belleville ur yelli ara dima d Paris. Yella d taddart timmanit alamma yettwarni ɣer temdint tamenzayt deg 1860, syin yebḍa gar tmnaḍt tis 19 d tmnaḍt tis 20, yeǧǧa-d deffir-s asawen i ssnen mliḥ yipariziyen : iberdan yettalin, tiseddarin, iberdan usligen d yiberdan yemdlen anda mazal-iten ixxamen wadda. Isawnen-a, d tallalt n trisiti ara ten-yawin ; yeqqim-d lfeṛḥ n tsawent d tmuɣli ɣef ssquf seg tseddarin n parc de Belleville. Deg rue de Belleville, yiwet n telwiḥt tessedday tamacahutt n tlalit n Édith Piaf ɣef tseddarin n yiwen n wexxam, ɣas taɣmist n tlalit-is tessken-d sbiṭar Tenon.

Aḥric-a yettwačča akken i yettwazdeɣ, wa ɣef wa. Ɣer yibistruten iqburen i ṭṭfent twaculin i d-yusan seg Auvergne, rnan-d deg lqern wis 20 wučči n Tefriqt n Ugafa, syin wučči n twaculin ticinwiyin d tid n Asie n unẓul-usammar i yezedɣen zzin i boulevard de Belleville d ssuq-is n beṛṛa. Seg wazal n xemseṭṭac n yiseggasen, yerna-d ɣer-sen yiwen n lǧil n yimsenziyen d yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa i d-yekkan seg lqahwa n uswir ɛlayen, seg ccṛab n yifellaḥen n tẓurin d ubistru n uɣanib. D azeṭṭa-a i d-yettak ubrid ad yettwaɛraḍ, war ma nerra yiwet sennig tayeḍ.

Belleville yella daɣen d tamurt n tfeṛṛant. Isawnen-a ttaken-d ccṛab afessas i ttessen deg tqahwiwin n beṛṛa i yebedden beṛṛa i mur des Fermiers généraux, anda ur t-tettawi ara ṭṭaksa n unekcum ɣer Paris. Ass-a, d taḥanut n ccṛab i yeṭṭfen amkan, s ccṛab n yifellaḥen n tẓurin i yettwaxedmen s ufus d afessas. Mi ara yesɛu yiwen n wexxam lkas, aɛraḍ n ccṛab yeqqim d ayen ur nelzim ara, yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab ; d amsenzi n ccṛab i t-id-yeqeddmen deg tḥanut-is, yerna ur nettess ara uqbel ad nɛawed ad nerkeb avilu : anhaṛ n uvilu, ula ma yesɛa tallalt n trisiti, yessuter leɛqel-nni kan i yessuter unhaṛ n yal takeṛṛust nniḍen. Ulac tissit yesɛan ccṛab i d-yettwaqeddmen i wid ur nessiweḍ ara leɛmer n tmura.

Kkuẓ n twsatin i wen-d-nettmuddu, yerna abrid yettawi-d i yal yiwet seg yixxamen i d-yettwaglamen ddaw-a. Tuzzya, azal n sin isragen d wezgen, sin n yixxamen, seg 140 € i yal amdan. Tikli, azal n kraḍ isragen, kraḍ n yixxamen, seg 165 € i yal amdan. Abrid Ameqqran, azal n kraḍ isragen d wezgen, kkuẓ n yixxamen, seg 185 € i yal amdan. Tuslig d Ugraw, seg 180 € i yal amdan, s lexlaṣ n kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus, s yimuren meqqren ugar ; ssuma s usuter i tkebbaniyin. Ssumat-a s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, ddan deg-sent yiɛraḍen i d-qeddmen yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten, aseqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ssuma taneggarut, azemz d wayen yellan deg ubrid s ṣṣeḥ, a wen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ.

Abrid, axxam s wexxam

Belleville yettwaɛraḍ ɣef uvilu n trisiti, axxam s wexxam

Aqellay n lqahwa n uswir ɛlayen

Lqahwa s ufilṭru neɣ espresso i d-yeqeddem uqellay n lqahwa ɣef ṭṭabla n tḥanut-is, s wanda i d-tekka d wamek i tettwaqla, yettwafessren deg teqbuct s timmad-is. Amwanes ad d-yeḥku amek i yuɣal usammar n Paris, deg wazal n xemseṭṭac n yiseggasen, d akal n lqahwa n uswir ɛlayen.

Taḥanut tamecṭuḥt n učči acinwi neɣ n Asie n unẓul-usammar

Tiremt tamecṭuḥt yenwan s wabbu neɣ yiwet n tewsit n lexyuḍ n uwren, i yhegga i d-yeqeddem umsenzi deg wemḍiq-is n uxeddim. Dinna nheddeṛ ɣef twaculin i d-yusan seg Wenzhou seg yiseggasen 1970, i wumi tḥunat-nsent bantent-d zzin i bulvar deg yiseggasen 1980, d ɣef twaculin i d-yusan seg Asie n unẓul-usammar seld 1975, alamma yiwen n uzniq ameqqran yuɣal d amkan n učči n uḥric.

Axeddam n lḥelwa s tnamit n Tefriqt n Ugafa

Lḥelwa s tament, s lluz neɣ s ssmid ɣef leḥsab n wass, teẓẓid s tidet, i d-yettwaqeddmen deg tḥanut n uxeddam n lḥelwa, ad tt-tebḍum ɣef sin. Amwanes ad d-yesmekti twaculin i d-yusan seg Algérie, seg Maroc d Tunisie deg yiseggasen 1950 d 1960, d wayen i d-ǧǧant deg lezjaj n tḥunat n uḥric.

Abistru n uɣanib

Aḍebsi amecṭuḥ i ibeddilen ɣef leḥsab n lfeṣl, n ssuq n wass d wayen yellan, i d-yeqeddem ɣef ṭṭabla uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten. Nettḥekku amek i d-uɣalen yibistruten iqburen n yimsenziyen n tirgin ɣer učči n yimsewwiyen imeẓyanen, i yezedɣen s waṭas deg usammar n Paris ɣef ddemma n lekra i yerxsen ugar n win n tlemmast.

Taḥanut n ccṛab n yifellaḥen n tẓurin

Lkas i d-yeqeddem umsenzi n ccṛab deg tḥanut-is, neɣ lɛeṣir n tẓurin ma tesmenyafem : aɛraḍ n ccṛab d ayen ur nelzim ara yerna yezmer ad yettwabeddel deg yal lawan, ulac tissit yesɛan ccṛab i d-yettwaqeddmen i wid ur nessiweḍ ara leɛmer n tmura, yerna ur nettess ara uqbel ad nɛawed ad nerkeb avilu, imi anhaṛ n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti yessuter leɛqel-nni kan i yessuter unhaṛ n yal takeṛṛust nniḍen. Amwanes ad yuɣal ɣer tfeṛṛant n Belleville d tqahwiwin n beṛṛa n zik, uqbel ad yettwarni Belleville ɣer Paris, mi ttasen medden ad swen beṛṛa i uɣrab.

Taḥlawit taneggarut uqbel tamuɣli ɣef ssquf

Lḥelwa neɣ laglas ɣef leḥsab n lfeṣl, i d-yeqeddem uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten deg tḥanut-is, uqbel ad naweḍ ɣer tseddarin n parc de Belleville i tmuɣli ɣef ssquf. Dinna i d-yettak umwanes tansiwin-is s timmad-is i wid yebɣan ad ssiwḍen ass-nsen ɣer zdat.

Deg tilawt

Akud: Tuzzya, azal n 2 h 30. Tikli, azal n 3 isragen. Abrid Ameqqran, azal n 3 h 30.
Ixxamen: Sin n yixxamen deg Tuzzya, kraḍ deg Tikli, kkuẓ deg Ubrid Ameqqran, ttwafernen gar wid i d-yettwaglamen sennig-a.
Temlilit: Amḍiq n temlilit yella deg uḥric, tama n yiwet n tewwurt n umitru. A wen-d-yettwamel akked usentem n uṭṭaf n umkan-nwen, akked ttfaṣil n ubrid.
Agraw: Alamma d semmus n yinebgawen i yal amwanes ; ma ugaren, amwanes wis sin d terbaɛt tis snat s ssumat-nni kan, ɣef leḥsab n wakud-nneɣ. Abrid uslig neɣ n ugraw seg 180 € i yal amdan, yettwaxelleṣ i kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus.
Tutlayin: S tefṛansist neɣ s teglizit. Tutlayin nniḍen zemrent ad ilint i yigrawen usligen, ɣef leḥsab n wakud n yimwanasen.

Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ttfaṣil n ubrid, azemz, amḍiq n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut a wen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat n uɛeggen i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, ddan deg-sent yiɛraḍen d useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask.

Isteqsiyen i d-yettuɣalen ɣef ubrid-a

Sɛiɣ tallirjit neɣ ur zmireɣ ara i kra n učči, amek ara yili wannect-a ?

Tzemrem a d-tinim tillirjiyin-nwen d wučči ur tezmirem ara mi ara d-tessutrem aṭṭaf n umkan : talɣut-a d tin ur nelzim ara. A tt-nawi i yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten uqbel abrid. Maca ur nezmir ara a nḍemmen belli ulac ula d lateṛ, ur nezmir ara a nwaɛed abrid war ayen i d-yettawin tallirjit : iɛraḍen ttwaheggan deg yimḍaq anda ttɛeddayen daɣen wayen nniḍen, yerna deg ubrid llan gar wayen nniḍen lqahwa, glutin, ayen i d-yekkan seg uyefki, iɛeqqayen s tqecrurt d jinjlan. Dinna, tzemrem ad testeqsim amsenzi s timmad-is ɣef wayen i wen-d-yeqeddem. Ma yella tallirjit teǧhed, nezmer a wen-nini ur ttekkit ara deg kra n yixxamen, ɣef ddemma n leɛqel.

Anwa i yheggin iɛraḍen, anwa i ten-id-yeqeddmen ?

Wander Gourmet tesnulfuy-d abrid yerna tettmuddu-yas amwanes. Yal aɛraḍ yettwaheggan yerna yettwaqeddem sɣur uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten, deg wemḍiq-is n uxeddim. Wander Gourmet ur theggi ur tettnal ula d yiwen n učči.

Yella ccṛab deg ubrid-a ?

Ɣef leḥsab n wamek yettwaseggem ubrid, yiwen n wexxam yezmer ad yesɛu lkas i d-yeqeddem umsenzi n ccṛab deg tḥanut-is. Aɛraḍ n ccṛab d ayen ur nelzim ara, yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab, s usuter kan, deg yal lawan. Ulac tissit yesɛan ccṛab i d-yettwaqeddmen i wid ur nessiweḍ ara leɛmer n tmura, yerna ur nettess ara uqbel ad nɛawed ad nerkeb avilu : anhaṛ n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti yessuter leɛqel-nni kan i yessuter unhaṛ n yal takeṛṛust nniḍen. Aḥerfi n ccṛab d amihi i tezmert, swet-t s leɛqel.

Asuter-iw d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen, zemreɣ ad uɣaleɣ ɣer deffir ?

Asuter-nwen mačči d lexlaṣ. A d-nuɣal ɣur-wen s wakud yellan, s wemḍiq n temlilit d ttfaṣil n yixxamen, yerna kullec ad d-yettwasentem s tira uqbel lexlaṣ. Imi d ameẓlu n usgunfu i d-yettunefken deg wazemz yettwasebden, azref n tuɣalin ɣer deffir n ṛbeɛṭac wussan ur yeddi ara, akken i t-id-yenna umagrad L. 221-28, 12° n code de la consommation. Tiwtilin n usefsex d usmutti llant deg tewtilin-nneɣ n uznuzu.

Iḥricen nniḍen n temdint

Le Marais Le Marais d yiwen seg yiḥricen idrusen n Paris i yeḥrzen udem-is n uqbel Haussmann : izenqan iḍiqen, ixxamen imeqqranen usligen n lqern wis 17, d sin n leqrun n yidles i yellan wa ɣef wa, mazal-iten ttwaɣran deg lezjaj n tḥunat. Wander Gourmet a kkun-tawi ɣer dinna deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen n yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa n uḥric, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa i tferrnem. Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint-Germain-des-Prés yesɛa isem n yiwen n wexxam n yimṛabḍen i d-yebdan deg lqern wis 6, i wumi taɛrict n unaqus tella gar tiqburin akk n Paris. D akal n tfellaḥt, syin d ssuq ameqqran n uznuzu, syin d aḥric n wid iṭṭebbɛen idlisen, n tnedlisin d n tqahwiwin n seld ṭṭrad : akal-a ibeddel lxedma-s acḥal n tikkal. Wander Gourmet a wen-d-yefk amwanes ɣer dinna ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa, ɣer yixeddamen n weɣrum, n tkemmart d cuklat. Montmartre Montmartre yettwaɛraḍ seg wadda am akken i yettwaɛraḍ seg ufella. Wander Gourmet a kkun-tawi deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, seg uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa ɣer wayeḍ : axebbaz s texmirt, axeddam n tkemmart i yessimɣuren takemmart-is s yiman-is, amsenzi n ccṛab n uḥric, axeddam n lḥelwa. Aɛraḍ n ccṛab d ayen ur nelzim ara, yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab, yerna werǧin yettwaqeddem i wid ur nessiweḍ ara leɛmer n tmura. Semmus n yinebgawen ɣer ufella i yal amwanes, s tefṛansist neɣ s teglizit. Isawnen, d tallalt n trisiti ara ten-yawin, yerna yiwen n uḥric n ubrid yettili s uḍar, avilu deg ufus.