Ameẓlu yeḥbes 2 n yimalasen, imi ugten yisuturen
Tikliwin i yesɛan aseḥqeq d lexlaṣ ad ddunt, ma d tiyaḍ ad awen-nerr idrimen.
Le Marais d yiwen si drus n yiḥricen n Paris i yeḥrezen arsam-is n uqbel Haussmann : tizniqin tiḍiqanin, ixxamen imeqqranen usligen n lqern wis 17, d sin n leqrun n yidles i yerkben wa ɣef wa, i mazal ttwaɣṛan deg yibelluṛen n tḥuna. Wander Gourmet a kkun-tawi ɣer dinna deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen n yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa n uḥric, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa i tferrnem.
S uḍar, Marais yettuɣal s zzerb ɣer sin neɣ kraḍ n yizenqan kan. Ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, aḥric yettwazger akken ma yella, seg yizenqan iqburen n texxamin n uxeddim n Marais n ufella alamma d ṭṭrafi n place des Vosges, war ma nḥettem leɛqel. Tallalt tessexsi isawnen idrusen n webrid d teɣzi-ines ; deg yizenqan n yimsebriden d ɣef yiblaḍen, ners kan ɣer wakal, ndemmer avilu kra n lmitrat. Abrid yettɛeddi deg yizenqan yeldin i tkeṛṛusin : ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu, ad tetḥeqqem deg yiman-nwen deg tazzla n tkeṛṛusin.
Isem n uḥric yeqqar-d ansi i d-yekka : d amda, i seg-s ssufɣent aman tirbaɛin n ddin deg Lqern Alemmas, yeqqim aṭas n wakud d tibḥirin n yizegzawen. Arsam n place Royale, i yuɣalen d place des Vosges, deg tazwara n lqern wis 17, yerra-t d aḥric n yixxamen imeqqranen usligen ; leqrun i d-yeḍfren rnan-d texxamin n uxeddim d yifergan n ṣṣenɛa, syin tiwaculin i d-yusan seg Europe talemmast, seg Tefriqt n Ugafa d seg Chine. D arkab-agi n wa ɣef wa, mačči d yiwet n tmurt kan, i yefkan i ubrid lbenna-s n wemyeggar n yiberdan.
Tikli n Marais tefka amur ameqqran i uɣrum aẓidan n udi, i lḥelwat n Ccerq Alemmas d cuklat, s yiwet n tansa n učči yemleḥ akked, ɣef leḥsab n lweqt n useggas, tikcemt ddaw ssuq yeɣummen. Aql-aɣ da nettglam tiwsatin n yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa, mačči isman n tḥuna : uglam n yixxamen ara nerzu ad awen-d-yettwasentem deg uṭṭaf n umkan, imi yettaṭṭaf ɣef lweqt n useggas, ɣef wussan n tulya d ɣef wayen ideg yezmer yal yiwen.
Kkuẓ n telɣiwin i d-nettmuddu deg uḥric-agi, yerna abrid yettawi-d i yal yiwet seg yixxamen i d-yettwaglamen ddaw-a. Tuzzya, azal n 2 h 30, sin n yixxamen, seg 140 € i umdan, s tewsiwin meṛṛa. Tikli, azal n 3 isragen, kraḍ n yixxamen, seg 165 € i umdan. Abrid Ameqqran, azal n 3 h 30, kkuẓ n yixxamen, seg 185 € i umdan. Abrid uslig neɣ n ugraw, seg 180 € i umdan, yettwaxelleṣ i kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus, s yimuren meqqren ugar ; tikebbaniyin ad sɛunt ssuma s usuter. Ssumat-agi d timatutin ; kecmen deg-sent iɛraḍen, aseqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ssuma taneggarut, s tewsiwin meṛṛa, ad awen-d-tettwasentem s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Wander Gourmet tesnulfuy-d abrid, tettmuddu-yas amwanes. Yal aɛraḍ yettwaheggan, yettunefk-d s ufus n uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten, deg wexxam-is. Wander Gourmet ur theggi ur tettnal ula d yiwen n učči.
Ixxamen i d-yettwaglamen ddaw-a d imedyaten n tewsatin n yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa d n wučči i d-yettunefken. Asuddes n ubrid, tarrayin i yettuseqdacen d wučči i d-yettunefken ttaṭṭafen ɣef lweqt n useggas, ɣef wussan n tulya d ɣef wayen ideg yezmer yal axeddam n ṣṣenɛa : mačči d aɛahed ɣef wamek ara yili usuddes.
Nɛerreḍ aɣrum aẓidan n udi d uḥric n uɣrum i yekkren s ttawil, i d-yeffɣen seg lkuca ṣṣbeḥ-nni s timmad-is ma yeǧǧa uxeddim n wass. Amwanes ad d-yessefhem acuɣer Marais yemneɛ deg waṭas seg yiberdan imeqqranen n lqern wis 19, i t-yezzin neɣ i t-innulen kan, ɣer wenẓul s uzeggir n rue de Rivoli, ɣer ugafa s rue de Turbigo d rue de Réaumur ; ad d-yini daɣen d acu i tbeddel leɛqel n texmirt deg lbenna n uɣrum d deg uḥraz-is.
Taɛeǧǧant s wafriwen, lfestuq, ssmid, aman n yijeǧǧigen n tcinit : kra n yiḥricen imecṭaḥ iẓidanen i d-yettunefken s tewzel, akken ad awen-d-yeqqim laẓ i wayen i d-iteddun. Amwanes ad d-yeḥku amek i d-wwḍent tuččiyin n Levant d n Tefriqt n Ugafa ɣer yizenqan-agi di tlemmast n lqern wis 20.
Yiwen n falafel ara tebḍum, cwiṭ n teɛeǧǧant n jenjlan, tibadenǧalin yečwan : aɛraḍ yettunefk-d s ufus n umsenzu, deg wemkan-is n uznuzu. Amwanes ad awen-d-yemmel Pletzl, tamnaḍt-nni i d-yezzin i rue des Rosiers anda zedɣent tiwaculin n wudayen i d-yusan seg Europe talemmast deg lqern wis 19, syin seg Tefriqt n Ugafa deg yiseggasen n 1950 d 1960.
Ɣef leḥsab n lweqt n useggas, tafarkit n uksum yettwabexxren, aslem yettwamellḥen, aḥric n lgaṭu s tkemmart tamellalt neɣ aḥric n strudel. Amwanes ad d-yeḥku ɣef yifergan d texxamin n uxeddim n yixxamen-agi iḍiqanen, anda xeddmen s tissegnit, anda znuzun aṭas uqbel ad yuɣal uḥric d win i ḥemmlen medden.
Sin neɣ kraḍ n yiceqfan n telwiḥt n cuklat n wemḍiq-is d yiwet n ganache, ara nɛerreḍ s wudduren, seg uẓidan ɣer urẓag. Amwanes ad d-yesmekti belli cuklat tekcem ɣer Paris seg wexxam n ugellid deg lqern wis 17, deg tallit anda Marais yella d aḥric n yixxamen imeqqranen usligen.
Takemmart n lweqt n useggas neɣ aḥric n učči yettwaheggan, i d-yettunefken s ufus n umsenzu deg wemkan-is n uznuzu, ddaw ssuq yeɣummen. Ma yella takemmart i d-yettunefken tettwaxdem s uyefki ur nettwasseḥmu ara, ur telhi ara i yigerdan imecṭaḥ, i tlawin s tadist d i yemdanen i wumi yeḍɛef uḥader n tfekka : init-aɣ-t-id deg uṭṭaf n umkan, ad nnadi ayen-nniḍen akked uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa. Amwanes ad d-yessefhem ansi i d-yekka ssuq-agi, yeldi deg tazwara n lqern wis 17 ɣer tama n wexxam n yigujilen i llan lsan azeggaɣ, i ɣef qqaren s waṭas d ssuq yeɣummen aqdim akk n Paris.
Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : uglam n ubrid, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut ad awen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat timatutin i umdan, s tewsiwin meṛṛa, deg-sent iɛraḍen d useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask.
Tzemrem ad t-id-tinim deg uṭṭaf n umkan, deg wurti i yettwaheggan i waya : talɣut-agi d tilellit, nettazen-itt uqbel abrid i uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa yeɛnan. Nettseggim abrid akken nezmer, ladɣa i wučči war aksum, maca ur nezmir ad neḍmen belli ulac lateṛ, ur nezmir ad nɛahed abrid war kra n wayen i d-yettawin tallirjit : awren, ayefki, timellalin, lǧuz d lluz d wayen i ten-icban, akked jenjlan ttwaxeddmen deg texxamin-nni kan n uxeddim. Tzemrem daɣen ad testeqsim dinna, deg wakud n uɛraḍ. Ma yella tallirjit-nwen d taqesḥant, ad awen-t-id-nini s tidet, nezmer ad awen-nsumer ur tekkim ara deg ubrid, s leɛqel.
Ɣef leḥsab n yixxamen i yettwafernen, axeddam n ṣṣenɛa neɣ bab n wexxam n učči yezmer ad d-yefk lkas deg wexxam-is. Aɛraḍ-agi d tilellit : yettwabeddal s tissit ur nesskir ara, abrid war ccṛab akk yezmer ad yili, tinim-t-id kan deg uṭṭaf n umkan. Ulac tissit iskiṛen i yettunefken i wid ur nessiweḍ ara leɛmer n tmura. Ulac tissit-is uqbel neɣ deg yiḥricen n webrid i nettɛeddi ɣef uvilu, acku tanhaṛt n uvilu, ula s tallalt n trisiti, tessutur leɛqel am tin n yal takeṛṛust-nniḍen. Tissit n ccṛab s waṭas d ayen iḍuṛṛen tezmert, swet s leɛqel.
Wander Gourmet tesnulfuy-d abrid, tettmuddu-yawen amwanes seg wexxam ɣer wayeḍ. Yal aɛraḍ yettwaheggan, yettunefk-d s ufus n uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten, deg wexxam-is. Wander Gourmet ur theggi, ur tettnal ula d yiwen n učči, ur tettawi ula d yiwet n tɣawsa n učči.
Aṭṭaf n umkan-nwen d asuter uqbel kullec. Ad d-nuɣal ɣur-wen s wayen yellan, s uglam n ubrid d ssuma taneggarut s tewsiwin meṛṛa, ad awen-d-nsentem ayagi s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Iberdan-nneɣ d imeẓla n telwit ilaqen ad d-ttunefkent deg wazemz neɣ deg tallit yettwasbadun : i tewsit-agi n umeẓlu, amagrad L. 221-28, 12° n code de la consommation yekkes azref n tuɣalin ɣer deffir n ṛbeɛṭac n wussan, ayagi ad awen-d-yettwini uqbel ad tsentmem asuter-nwen. Lweqt d tewtilin n usefsex, n usmutti d n tririt n yedrimen llan deg tewtilin-nneɣ timatutin n uznuzu, ara d-tafem uqbel yal asentem. Ma yella lxilaf ur nufi ara tifrat gar-aneɣ, tzemrem ad tsiwlem baṭel i umsemṣaleḥ n usemres, tansa-s tella deg tewtilin-agi timatutin.
Ih. Abrid yettɛeddi deg yizenqan yeldin i tkeṛṛusin, di tlemmast n temdint : ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu, ad tetḥeqqem deg yiman-nwen deg tazzla n tkeṛṛusin. Avilu s tallalt n trisiti yessutur cwiṭ n wakud i wemsizwer, ayen i yettwaheggan deg beddu s kra n tesdatin n usemres d kra n yilugan n tɣellist. Akask yettunefk-awen, nessutur-awen ad t-telsem deg ubrid meṛṛa. Ma yella acḥal aya seg wasmi ur terkibem ara avilu, init-aɣ-t-id deg uṭṭaf n umkan : ad t-nerr deg leḥsab deg leɛqel n ubrid d deg ufran n yizenqan.
Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : uglam n ubrid, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut ad awen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat timatutin i umdan, s tewsiwin meṛṛa, deg-sent iɛraḍen d useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask.
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