Belleville was not always Paris. An independent commune until the annexation of 1860, it was absorbed into the city and split between the 19th and 20th arrondissements, leaving behind a relief Parisians know well: streets that climb, staircases, dead-end villas where low houses still stand. Electric assist flattens those slopes; what remains is the pleasure of the gradient and the view over the rooftops from the terraces of the Parc de Belleville. On rue de Belleville, a plaque keeps alive the legend that Édith Piaf was born on the steps of a building, while her birth certificate records the Tenon hospital.
The neighbourhood eats the way it was settled, in layers. To the old bistros run by families from the Auvergne were added, over the twentieth century, the kitchens of North Africa, then those of the Chinese and Southeast Asian families who settled around boulevard de Belleville and its open-air market. Over the past fifteen years or so a further generation of shopkeepers and artisans has arrived through specialty coffee, growers' wines and the chef-driven bistro. The tour gives you that layering to taste, without ranking it.
Belleville was also wine country. These slopes produced a modest wine, drunk in the guinguettes just outside the Fermiers généraux toll wall, where it escaped the duty levied at the gates of Paris. Today the succession happens in the cellar, with low-intervention growers' wines. Where a house includes a glass, the alcohol tasting stays optional and can be swapped for an alcohol-free drink; it is served by the wine merchant in their own shop, and nobody drinks before getting back on the bike: riding a pedal-assist bike calls for the same sobriety as any other vehicle. No alcohol is served to minors.
Four formats are available, and for each of them the tour draws on the houses described below. The Jaunt, about two and a half hours, two houses, from €140 per person. The Ride, about three hours, three houses, from €165 per person. The Grand Tour, about three and a half hours, four houses, from €185 per person. Private & Group, from €180 per person, billed for at least three people, with more generous portions; quotes for companies. These amounts are stated inclusive of all taxes and cover the tastings served by the artisans who welcome you, the use of a pedal-assist bike and a helmet. The final price, the date and the exact content of the tour are confirmed to you in writing before any payment.