Aɛraḍ n la Butte : Montmartre seg uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa ɣer wayeḍ, ɣef uvilu n trisiti

Montmartre yettwaɛraḍ seg wadda am wakken i yettwaɛraḍ seg ufella. Wander Gourmet a ken-tawi deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, seg uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa ɣer wayeḍ : axebbaz i yeskaren aɣrum s tmtunt, amzenzu n tkemmarin i yessewsaren tikemmarin-is, amzenzu n ccṛab n uɣrem, axeddam n tḥelwatin. Aɛraḍ n ccṛab mačči d tilzimt, yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab, yerna werǧin yettunefk i wid ur nebliɣ ara. Semmus n yinebgawen ɣer ufella i yal amwanes, s tefransist neɣ s teglizit. Isawnen, d tallalt n trisiti ara ten-yawin, yerna yiwen n uḥric n ubrid yettwazger s uḍar, avilu s ufus.

Ṭṭfet amkan Wali ssumat

La Butte d amkan agaman aɛlayan akk n Paris. Uqbel ad tuɣal d aɣrem n yinaẓuren, tella d taddart n yineqqaben n uẓru d wat tessirin : dinna i d-tteksen lǧebs i yefkan isem-is i lǧebs n Paris, dinna i zzḍen irden deg wazal n tlatin n tessirin ur d-yeqqimen ara deg-sent. Montmartre ur tekcim ara ɣer tmanaɣt alamma d 1860. Ar dinna, ccṛab i ttessen deg-s yettrewwil i ṭṭaksa n octroi, tin i d-ttḥasaben ɣef tewwura n Paris, d ayen i d-yessefhamen tiḥuna n ccṛab d ccḍeḥ n la Butte akked wemḍiq i teṭṭef taferrant n tẓurin deg umezruy n taddart.

S uḍar, Montmartre yettxelliṣ s tseddarin. Ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, isawnen n rue Lepic neɣ n rue Caulaincourt ttwalin s leɛqel n wawal, yerna deg tlata n yisragen nettɛeddi ɣef wayen ur d-yettnal ara ubrid s uḍar. Anda abrid d win n uḍar, d aḍyiq neɣ deg-s tiseddarin, nesrusu aḍar ɣer wakal, nettdeffiɛ avilu s ufus : aya yettwaheggan deg ubrid, mačči d ayen ara d-yeḍrun ɣef tikkelt. Ayen i d-yeqqimen n wakud, nteddu deg yiberdan yeldin i tkerrusin, d ayen yesran ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad tilim di laman deg temdint. Deg tuffɣa, aɛraḍ n uvilu d yilugan n laman, akask yettunefk-awen.

Ur d-nessuffuɣ ara ismawen n tḥuna anda ara nerzu, yerna mačči d taffart n uznuzu : ixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa i ɣer ara nerzu ttbeddilen ɣef leḥsab n tsemhuyt, n wussan n uldi d wayen yellan ɣer yal yiwen, yerna a wen-d-ttwasentmen mi ara d-tsutrem amkan. Ayen i d-nettmeslay fell-as, d anaw n wexxam d wayen ara tɛerḍem, ɣer yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa ilelliyen i nefren ɣef leḥsab n lxedma-nsen mačči ɣef leḥsab n yisem n tḥanut-nsen. I uxebbaz, nettnadi pain de tradition française akken i t-id-yebder uḍahir n 13 ctembeṛ 1993 : awren n yirden, aman, lmelḥ, tamtunt neɣ lexmira, war tamerna d war asegres deg yal aḥric n uxeddim.

Kkuẓ n talɣiwin, ssumat n uɛeggen, yerna abrid yettawi-d i yal yiwet seg yixxamen i d-yettwaglamen ddaw-a. Tuzzya, azal n sin n yisragen d wezgen, sin n yixxamen, seg 140 € i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa. Tikli, azal n tlata n yisragen, kraḍ n yixxamen, seg 165 € i yal amdan. Abrid Ameqqran, azal n tlata n yisragen d wezgen, kkuẓ n yixxamen, seg 185 € i yal amdan. Tuslig d Ugraw seg 180 € i yal amdan, s lexlaṣ n kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus, imuren meqqren ugar, ssuma s usuter i tkebbaniyin. Ssumat-a ddan deg-sent iɛraḍen i d-fkan yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa, aseqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Mačči d asumer yeṭṭfen : ssuma taneggarut, azemz d wayen akk ara yilin deg ubrid a wen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ.

Abrid, axxam s wexxam

Aɛraḍ n la Butte : Montmartre seg uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa ɣer wayeḍ, ɣef uvilu n trisiti

Yiwen n uxebbaz s tmtunt

Yiwen n uɣrum n tannumi d teḥbult taẓidant ɣef leḥsab n wayen i d-yeffɣen seg ufurnu ass-nni, ttunefken yerna ttwaɛerḍen deg tḥanut. Amwanes a d-yeḥku ɣef tessirin n la Butte, ɣef yirden i d-yettalin seg yizuɣar n ugafa, d ɣef wayen i yesra uḍahir n 13 ctembeṛ 1993 i pain de tradition française : ulac tamerna, ulac asegres, deg yal aḥric.

Yiwen n umzenzu n lfakya d lxeḍret deg ubrid n tḥuna

Yiwet n lfakya neɣ yiwet n lxeḍret n tsemhuyt, iheyya-tt yerna yefka-tt-id umzenzu deg wemḍiq-is n uznuzu. Nheddeṛ ɣef yiberdan n tḥuna n učči n la Butte, rue Lepic d rue des Abbesses, i yesseččen taddart acḥal uqbel ad tuɣal Montmartre d amkan n tirza.

Yiwen n umzenzu n tkemmarin i yessewsaren tikemmarin-is

Tikemmarin yettwafernen ɣef leḥsab n tsemhuyt d wayen yellan ass-nni, s wawal ɣef wewessar deg texxamt n ddaw wakal. Amwanes a d-yessefhem acuɣer takemmart n tefsut ur tettemcabi ara ɣer tin n lexrif, d wacu i tḥerrez s ṣṣeḥ AOP, taɛlamt n uɣbalu yettwaḥerzen. Mi ara d-tettunefk takemmart s uyefki ur nerɣi ara, ur tettusumur ara i yigerdan imecṭaḥ, i tlawin s tadist d wid iwumi teḍɛef tezmert n uḥraz : init-aɣ-d mi ara d-tsutrem amkan, a nnadi tarrayt nniḍen akked uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa, deg tilisa n wayen yellan ass-nni.

Yiwen n umzenzu n ccṛab n uɣrem

Yiwen n lkas i d-yefka umzenzu n ccṛab ɣef ṭṭabla n tḥanut, ɣef umkan, werǧin skud netteddu. Aɛraḍ n ccṛab mačči d tilzimt yerna yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab ; ur yettunefk ara i wid ur nebliɣ ara, yerna ur nettess ara uqbel a d-nales i uvilu : anehheṛ, ula ma yella s tallalt n trisiti, yesra aqerru yeṣfan am akken i t-yesra unehheṛ n yal akerrus nniḍen. Aṭas n ccṛab d aɣbel i tezmert, sew s leɛqel. Amwanes a d-yeḥku ɣef lawan ideg ccṛab n la Butte yettrewwil i octroi, d ɣef Clos Montmartre, taferrant n tẓurin n Ville de Paris deg rue des Saules, i tettwazenz tmegra-s i win ara yefken ugar i tallalt tamettit, ɣef waya ur d-tban ara deg ula d yiwen n uɛraḍ.

Yiwen n uxeddam n tḥelwatin n uɣrem

Yiwet n teḥlawat i yiwen n umdan, tettunefk deg tḥanut, s waṭas d taqburt i d-yettwaseggmen ɣer wass-a. Nheddeṛ ɣef yixxamen n uxeddim d lqahwi anda ttemlilin yinaẓuren n la Butte, d ɣef wayen i d-yeqqimen i Montmartre seg wudem-is n taddart.

Yiwen n uxeddam n cuklat

Yiwen neɣ sin n yiḥricen n cuklat i taggara, mi yuki yiles. Amwanes a d-yessefhem ayen yemgaraden gar cuklat n tmagrint d cuklat i yexdem uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa s ufus-is, d wayen ibeddel neɣ ur nbeddel ara deg yimi uḍfar n ubrid n yiɛeqqayen n kakaw.

Deg tilawt

Akud: Azal n 2 h 30 i Tuzzya, 3 isragen i Tikli, 3 h 30 i Wabrid Ameqqran.
Ixxamen: 2 n yixxamen i Tuzzya, 3 i Tikli, 4 i Wabrid Ameqqran, ttwafernen gar wid i d-yettwaglamen sennig-a.
Temlilit: Amḍiq n temlilit deg uɣrem, s umata qrib kan i tnarit n umitru. A wen-d-yettwamel mi ara wen-d-nsentem aṭṭaf n umkan-nwen.
Agraw: Alamma d 5 n yinebgawen i yal amwanes ; ma ugaren, amwanes wis sin d terbaɛt tis snat s ssumat-nni kan. Tuslig d Ugraw seg 180 € i yal amdan, s lexlaṣ n kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus.
Tutlayin: Tafransist neɣ taglizit. Yal tutlayt nniḍen a tt-nwali yiwet yiwet i yigrawen usligen, war aɛhed s ɣur-nneɣ.

Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : amek ara teddu tikli, azemz, amḍiq n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut a wen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat n uɛeggen i yal amdan, s ṭṭaksat meṛṛa, ddan deg-sent iɛraḍen d useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask.

Isteqsiyen i d-yettuɣalen ɣef tikli-a

Isawnen n Montmartre, nezmer ad ten-nali ?

Ih, maca ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad tilim di laman deg iberdan n temdint ideg tteddunt tkerrusin : abrid iteddu deg iberdan yeldin i tkerrusin. Ivila s tallalt n trisiti, asawen yettwali s leɛqel n wawal, yerna yiwen n uḥric n ubrid yettwazger s uḍar, avilu s ufus, deg yiberdan n uḍar d zdat n tseddarin. Deg tuffɣa, yella wakud n uɛraḍ n uvilu d yilugan n laman, yerna akask yettunefk-awen. Ma werǧin tnehṛem avilu deg temdint, init-aɣ-d uqbel a d-tsutrem amkan : a d-nemmeslay fell-as uqbel yal asentem.

Sɛiɣ allirji neɣ učči i ur yi-nemṣada ara.

Init-aɣ-d mi ara d-tsutrem amkan, deg wemḍiq i yettwaheggan i waya : talɣut-a mačči d tilzimt, ur tenfiɛ ala i uheggi n ubrid-nwen, yerna ur tettwaḥraz ara ala akud i ilaqen i uheggi-a. A tt-nawi uqbel abrid i yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa ara ken-yesnubgeten. Ur nezmir ara ad nḍmen ulac n lateṛ, ur nezmir ara ad nḍmen tukksa yakk n usentay n wallirji deg yimḍiqen ideg xeddmen awren, lfakya n uqecrur d uyefki, yerna ur nettaɛhad ara abrid ara yekksen asentay n wallirji. Ma yella wallirji-nwen d aqesḥan, ur awen-nettsumur ara abrid-a, s leɛqel. Yal aɛraḍ iheyya-t yerna yefka-t-id uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa ara ken-yesnubgeten, deg tḥanut-is. Wander Gourmet ur theyyi ara učči, ur t-tettnal ara.

Yella ccṛab deg ubrid ?

Ɣef leḥsab n ubrid, yiwen n wexxam yezmer ad d-yefk lkas, ɣer umzenzu n ccṛab neɣ ɣer bab n usečču ara ken-yesnubgeten, ɣur-s. Aɛraḍ-a mačči d tilzimt yerna yezmer ad yettwabeddel : abrid war ccṛab yezmer ad yili, tinim-t-id kan mi ara d-tsutrem amkan. Ulac tissit s ccṛab i wid ur nebliɣ ara, yerna ulac tissit skud tetteddum ɣef uvilu : anehheṛ n uvilu, ula ma yella s tallalt n trisiti, yesra aqerru yeṣfan am akken i t-yesra unehheṛ n yal akerrus nniḍen. Ccrab werǧin d asentel n ubrid, d yiwen kan seg yixxamen-is. Aṭas n ccṛab d aɣbel i tezmert, sew s leɛqel.

Amek i yettili uṭṭaf n umkan, yerna zemreɣ ad sefsxeɣ ?

Aṭṭaf n umkan-nwen d asuter d amezwaru. A d-nuɣal ɣur-wen s wussan i yezmren, s wemḍiq n temlilit d wamek ara teddu tikli ; ssuma taneggarut a wen-d-tettwasentem s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Abrid i d-yettwasutren i wazemz neɣ i lawan yettwasebden d ameẓlu n usgunfu, akken i t-id-yenna umagrad L. 221-28, 12° n code de la consommation : deg tegnit-a, asaḍuf ur d-yettak ara azref n tuɣalin ɣer deffir n ṛbeɛṭac wussan. Ma yella uṭṭaf n umkan-nwen yettwaxdem war azemz yettwasebden, azref-a n tuɣalin ɣer deffir yetteddu. Tiwtilin n usefsex d usmutti llant deg tewtilin-nneɣ timatutin n uznuzu, i d-yemmalen daɣen amsemṣaleḥ n usemres ilaqen (imagraden L. 612-1 d L. 616-1 n code de la consommation).

Iɣerman nniḍen

Le Marais Le Marais d yiwen seg yiɣerman idrusen n Paris i yeḥerzen udem-is n uqbel Haussmann : tizniqin tiḍyiqin, ixxamen usligen n lqern wis 17, d sin n leqrun n yidles i d-yettemyeḍfaren, mazal-iten ttwaɣṛan deg yisfuyla n tḥuna. Wander Gourmet a ken-tawi ɣer dinna deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen n yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa n uɣrem, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa i tferrnem. Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint-Germain-des-Prés yesɛa isem n yiwet n tzeqqa tameqqrant n ddin i yebnan deg lqern wis 6, tin i yesɛan yiwen seg yiturar n lǧerṣ iqburen akk n Paris. Akal n tfellaḥt, syin d asuq ameqqran n uznuzu, syin d aɣrem n wid iṭṭebɛen idlisen, n yimzenzen n yidlisen d lqahwi n deffir ṭṭrad : akal-a ibeddel lxedma-s acḥal n tikkal. Wander Gourmet a ken-tessedu ɣer dinna ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa, ɣer yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa n uɣrum, n tkemmart d cuklat. Bastille d Aligre Bastille d Aligre, d Paris i iṛuḥen ɣer ssuq. Zzin i wesayes, d aɣrem n yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa n lmubilya ; qrib kan, yiwen seg yisuqan iǧehden akk n tmanaɣt akked tzeqqa-s yettwaɣummen. Wander Gourmet a ken-tawi ɣer dinna deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, seg ṭṭwabel n ssuq ɣer ṭṭabla n yiwet n tḥanut n ccṛab n uɣrem. Aɛraḍ n ccṛab mačči d tilzimt, yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab, yerna werǧin yettunefk i wid ur nebliɣ ara. Semmus n yinebgawen ɣer ufella i yal amwanes, s tefransist neɣ s teglizit.