Ameẓlu yeḥbes 2 n yimalasen, imi ugten yisuturen
Tikliwin i yesɛan aseḥqeq d lexlaṣ ad ddunt, ma d tiyaḍ ad awen-nerr idrimen.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés yerfed isem n wexxam n yiruḥaniyen i yebnan deg lqern wis 6, i wumi ṣṣumɛa-s tella ger tiqburin akk n Paris. Akal n tyerza, sakin ssuq ameqqran n uzenzi, sakin aḥric n wid yeṭṭebɛen idlisen, n tnedlisin d n lqahwat n seld ṭṭrad : akal-agi ibeddel ṣṣenɛa acḥal n tikkal. Wander Gourmet yettmwanas yid-wen ɣer dinna ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa, ɣer at ṣṣenɛa n weɣrum, n tkemmart d ccakula.
Aḥric yebbeɛ ugar n wakken i d-yettban. Seg uzniq de Buci ɣer uzniq du Cherche-Midi, seg umsagar n l'Odéon ɣer yidisan n urti n Luxembourg, tirza n uɛraḍ s uḍar tettfaṛas yiwen n uzniq yerna teǧǧa wiyaḍ. Avilu s tallalt n trisiti ibeddel aktal : nesdukkul at ṣṣenɛa n ugafa n uḥric ɣer wid n unẓul war tidi, neḥrez laẓ seg wexxam ɣer wayeḍ, yerna nettras seg uvilu akken kan yeččur uzniq. Tikli tettɛeddi ɣef yiznaqen anda ttedduent tkeṛṛusin : ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad terkidem ger tkeṛṛusin n temdint.
Awal « prés » n yisem-agi, d igran n wexxam n yiruḥaniyen ibenediktiyen, beṛṛa n leswaṛ n temdint. Deg taggara n lqern wis 15 i yebda ssuq n Saint-Germain, yiwen seg yimyagaren imeqqranen n uzenzi n Paris i wazal n kraḍ n leqrun. Aldi n boulevard Saint-Germain deg lqern wis 19 igezm-it aḥric war ma yekkes iznaqen-is n ssuq. Deg lqern wis 20, ixxamen n usuffeɣ n yidlisen, École des Beaux-Arts, lqahwat n tsekla n seld ṭṭrad anda ttemlilin yimyura n tama tazelmaḍt n tefelsafit n tilin, akked texxamin n ddaw wakal n jazz i s-yefkan ccan-is deg tsekla. Nettezzi ɣef uvilu anda uran aṭas, yerna anda ččan lebda akken ilaq.
Tikli tesmenyaf aɣrum n lɛada, tikemmarin yettwassewsren, i yesɛan aṭas n tikkal isem n uɣbalu yettwaḥerzen ɣef leḥsab n lmusem, akked ccakula, s lqahwa tuzzigt yerna, ɣef leḥsab n lmusem, s tuzzya deg uzniq n ssuq neɣ deg ssuq yettwaɣummen. Nettwessif tiwsatin n at ṣṣenɛa, werǧin ismawen n tḥuna : ixxamen ara nerzu ad awen-d-ttwasentmen s telqey deg uṭṭaf n umkan, acku ttɛeddin ɣef lmusem, ɣef wussan n tewwurt teldi d ɣef wakud n yal yiwen deg-sen.
Kkuẓ n tewsatin i d-nettak deg uḥric-agi, yerna tikli tettawi-d i yal yiwet seg yixxamen i d-yettwabedren ddaw-agi. Tuzzya, azal n 2 h 30, sin n yixxamen, seg 140 euros i yal amdan, tabzert tekcem deg-s. Tikli, azal n 3 isragen, kraḍ n yixxamen, seg 165 euros i yal amdan. Abrid Ameqqran, azal n 3 h 30, kkuẓ n yixxamen, seg 185 euros i yal amdan. Tikli tuslig neɣ tin n ugraw, seg 180 euros i yal amdan, tettwaxelleṣ i kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus, s yimuren meqqren ugar ; tikebbaniyin ad sɛunt ssuma s usuter. Ssumat-agi d tiskanin ; kecmen deg-sent iɛraḍen, aseqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ssuma taneggarut, s tebzert-is, ad awen-tt-nsentem s tira send yal lexlaṣ. Wander Gourmet d netta i isnulfuyen tikli yerna i yettmwanasen yid-wen. Yal aɛraḍ yettwaheggi yerna yettwaqeddec s ufus n bab n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesṭerḥben, deg tḥanut-is. Wander Gourmet ur yheggi ur yeṭṭif s ufus ula d yiwen n učči.
Ixxamen i d-yettwabedren ddaw-agi d imedyaten n tewsatin n at ṣṣenɛa d n yifarisen. Asuddes n tikli, tarrayin i yettwaseqdacen (tamtunt, lkuca s wesɣar, aqlay n lqahwa, asewsser n tkemmart) d yifarisen i d-yettwaqeddcen ttɛeddin ɣef lmusem, ɣef wussan n tewwurt teldi d ɣef wakud n yal bab n ṣṣenɛa : ur llin ara d awal yeṭṭfen ɣef wamek ara tettwasedes tikli.
Aɣrum yettwaɛraḍ d amezwaru weḥd-s, sakin s cwiṭ n udi, iwakken ad tḥessem d acu i d-yettak uqeccur ; ɣef leḥsab n wexxam, asewwi yezmer ad yili deg lkuca s wesɣar. Amwanes ad d-yessefru d acu yeǧǧa d acu yegdel umaṛsum n 13 ctembeṛ 1993 deg weɣrum n lɛada tafransist, yerna ad d-yesmekti belli iznaqen-agi mazal-iten d igran n wexxam n yiruḥaniyen uqbel tmanya n leqrun.
Sin ɣer kraḍ n tkemmarin i d-yettwaqeddcen s ddur, seg win ijdiden ɣer win yettwassewsren ugar : ɣef leḥsab n lmusem d n wayen yellan deg texxamt n ddaw wakal n bab n ṣṣenɛa, takemmart n tɣaṭ, takemmart taleqqaqt s uqeccur n ujeǧǧig neɣ takemmart yeqquren i yettwasewwan, i yesɛan aṭas n tikkal isem n uɣbalu yettwaḥerzen. Asuddes n tḍebsit yettɛeddi ɣef wayen yellan deg wass-nni, yerna ur yettwasentam ara send. Kra n tkemmarin-agi ttwaxedment s uɣi ur nettwasseww ara : ur ilaq ara i warrac imecṭaḥ, i tlawin s tadist d i yemdanen iwumi iḍɛef uɛessi n tfekka : init-aɣ-t-id deg uṭṭaf n umkan, a nnadi yiwet n tifrat akked bab n ṣṣenɛa. Amwanes ad d-yeḥku ɣef uxeddim n texxamt n ddaw wakal, ɣef wayen i d-yettak usewsser, d ɣef wayen i yeḥettem udlis n tewtilin n yisem n uɣbalu ɣef umafares.
Ccakula n tɣellaft d yiwet n telwiḥt n uɣbalu ttwaɛraḍen ɣer tama n wayeḍ, sakin cwiṭ n ganac. Amwanes ad d-yeḥku ɣef wamek i d-yewweḍ kakaw ɣer Paris seg wexxam n ugellid deg lqern wis 17, d ɣef umgirred gar bab n ṣṣenɛa i yesxeddmen ccakula n tɣellaft i d-yuɣ, d win i iqellin aɛeqqa s yiman-is.
Lqahwa n ustay tettwaqeddec deg lkas amecṭuḥ, ɣef uɛeqqa n lmusem, s wayen ara wen-yeǧǧen ad twalim amgirred gar sin n yiɣbula. Amwanes ad d-yesmekti belli lqahwa tettwasew zdat n medden deg Paris seg 1672, akken i d-qqarent teqṣiḍin i yettwassnen ugar, mi tt-id-yeqqeddec yiwen n bab n tḥanut i d-yusan seg Ccerq ddaw n uqiḍun n ssuq n Saint-Germain, d belli lqahwat n tsekla n seld ṭṭrad i d-yefkan ccan i uḥric.
Yiwen n lkas i d-yeqqeddec bab n ccṛab deg tḥanut-is, ɣef ccṛab n bab n tferrant, neɣ lɛeṣir n tẓurin ma tesmenyafem : axxam-agi d afrayan yerna yettwabeddal s tissit war ccṛab s usuter kan. D bab n tḥanut i yeqqeddcen, deg tḥanut-is. Ulac tissit i deg yella ccṛab i yettwafken i wid ur newwiḍ ara leɛmeṛ n usaḍuf, yerna ulac tissit n ccṛab send neɣ deg wakud n yiḥricen i nettezzi ɣef uvilu, imi anhaṛ n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti yeḥwaǧ leɛqel am win n yal takeṛṛust nniḍen. Aṭas n ccṛab d amihi ɣef tezmert, sew-it s leɛqel. Amwanes ad d-yeḥku ɣef tferranin i sɛan ixxamen n yiruḥaniyen zzi i Paris, d ɣef ssuq n uzenzi i yellan dagi i wazal n kraḍ n leqrun.
Ɣef leḥsab n lmusem, cwiṭ seg wafaris aḥerfi : udi yettwaxedmen s ufus, lfakya, aksum yettwaḥerzen n tmurt, i d-yeqqeddec bab n tḥanut deg wemkan-is n uzenzi. Amwanes ad d-yemmel anda i yella ssuq aqbur n Saint-Germain, i yuɣalen d ssuq yettwaɣummen, yerna ad d-yessefru acuɣer iznaqen n ssuq n uḥric qqimen mgal aldi n boulevard.
Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ixxamen s telqey, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira send yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat d tiskanin i yal amdan, tabzert tekcem deg-sent, s yiɛraḍen d useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask.
Ih, deg kra n tlisa, yerna nesmenyaf a tent-id-nini ɛinani. Tzemrem a ɣ-d-tinim tillirjiyin-nwen, učči ur tqebbel ara tfekka-nwen neɣ abrid-nwen n učči deg uṭṭaf n umkan : ayagi d afrayan, yerna nessawaḍ talɣut send tikli i bab n ṣṣenɛa yeɛnan. Tikli war aksum tettwaheggi war uguren. Maca ur nḍemmen ara belli ulac lateṛ, ur nḍemmen ara daɣen belli aferdis n tallirjit yettwakkes akken ma yella : deg lkuca d deg texxamt n ddaw wakal n tkemmart, aglutin d uɣi ttwaxedmen yal ass. Ihi ur nweɛɛed ula d yiwet n tikli war aglutin, war alaktuz neɣ war kawkaw. Tzemrem daɣen ad testeqsim dinna, deg wakud n uɛraḍ, yerna ma yella tallirjit tewɛeṛ, nezmer a wen-nini ur ttekkayet ara deg wexxam-agi neɣ deg tikli-agi.
Yezmer ad yili, s yiwen n lkas i d-yeqqeddec bab n ccṛab neɣ bab n wexxam n učči, deg tḥanut-is. Axxam-agi d afrayan : lɛeṣir, aman neɣ lqahwa ad t-beddlen, yerna tikli war ccṛab akken ma tella tezmer ad tili ma yella tennam-t-id. Ulac tissit i deg yella ccṛab i yettwafken i wid ur newwiḍ ara leɛmeṛ n usaḍuf. Ulac tissit n ccṛab send neɣ deg wakud n yiḥricen i nettezzi ɣef uvilu, acku anhaṛ n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti yeḥwaǧ leɛqel am win n yal takeṛṛust nniḍen. Aṭas n ccṛab d amihi ɣef tezmert, sew-it s leɛqel.
Ala. Wander Gourmet d netta i isnulfuyen tikli yerna i yettmwanasen yid-wen seg wexxam ɣer wayeḍ. Yal aɛraḍ yettwaheggi yerna yettwaqeddec s ufus n bab n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesṭerḥben, deg tḥanut-is. Wander Gourmet ur yheggi ur yeṭṭif s ufus ula d yiwen n učči, yerna ur yettawi ula d yiwet n sselɛa n učči.
Asuter-nwen n uṭṭaf n umkan ur d-yeggar ara lexlaṣ imiren kan : ad awen-d-nsentem s tira, uqbel kullec, ma yezmer ad yili, ixxamen s telqey d ssuma taneggarut s tebzert-is. Imi tikliwin-nneɣ d irmuden n usgunfu i ilaqen ad ttwaxedmen deg wazemz neɣ deg tallit i ɣef nemsefham, amagrad L. 221-28, 12° n Code de la consommation yekkes azref n ubeddel n rray n ṛbeɛṭac n wussan ; ayagi ad awen-d-yettwini send yal asentem n usuter. Wakuden d twetlin n usefsex, n usmutti d tririt n yidrimen ad ten-tafem deg tewtilin-nneɣ timatutin n uzenzi, i nessutur fell-awen ad tent-teɣṛem send asentem. Ma yella yekker umennuɣ ur nefri yid-neɣ, tzemrem ad tessiwlem baṭel i walemmas n yimsaɣen, i wumi ara tafem tansiwin deg tewtilin-agi timatutin.
Ih. Tikli tettɛeddi ɣef yiznaqen anda ttedduent tkeṛṛusin, deg tlemmast n temdint : ilaq ad tessnem ad tnehṛem avilu yerna ad terkidem ger tkeṛṛusin n temdint. Avilu s tallalt n trisiti yeḥwaǧ kra n wakud iwakken ad tennumem yid-s : deg tazwara, ad tɛerḍem tallalt n trisiti yerna ad awen-d-fken kra n yilugan n taɣellist. Akask yettunefk-awen-d yerna nessutur fell-awen a t-tselsem deg tikli meṛṛa. Ma yella aṭas aya segmi ur tenhiṛem avilu, init-aɣ-t-id deg uṭṭaf n umkan : a t-neḥseb deg leɛqel n tikli d deg ufran n yiznaqen.
Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : ixxamen s telqey, azemz, amkan n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut ad awen-ten-nsentem s tira send yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat d tiskanin i yal amdan, tabzert tekcem deg-sent, s yiɛraḍen d useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask.
Ssutret amkan