The canal is not decoration. It was dug in the 1820s and opened in 1825 to supply Paris with water and bring goods into the heart of the city: grain, wine, timber, coal. Its locks make up the drop between the Bassin de la Villette and the Seine, and part of its course was covered over in the nineteenth century to carry a boulevard. The district around it stayed a working faubourg of workshops, printers and warehouses for a long time, before becoming one of the places where the new Paris cooking settled.
This is where the word bistronomie takes on a concrete meaning. Since the 1990s a generation of cooks has left the grand houses to open small tables with no tablecloth, a short menu and carefully sourced produce, and the 10th arrondissement took in many of them. Alongside them work bread artisans who raise their dough with a sourdough starter, cheese affineurs, wine merchants who also feed you and pastry chefs who try things out. The tour puts these trades in conversation rather than simply lining them up.
Between two houses, the setting does the work: quai de Valmy and quai de Jemmapes, the streets running down towards place de la République, a covered market hall inherited from the Second Empire, the brick-and-stone quadrangle of a hospital founded by an edict of 1607, under Henri IV, and still in service today, a former convent turned public venue, and to the north the rotunda of La Villette, once a toll gate. The pedal-assist bike lets you hold all of that together in a single half-day, which a walking tour cannot do.
Four formats are available, and for each of them the tour draws on the houses described below. The Jaunt, about two and a half hours, two houses, from €140 per person. The Ride, about three hours, three houses, from €165 per person. The Grand Tour, about three and a half hours, four houses, from €185 per person. Private & Group, from €180 per person, billed for at least three people, with more generous portions; quotes for companies. These amounts are stated inclusive of all taxes and cover the tastings served by the artisans who welcome you, the use of a pedal-assist bike and a helmet. The final price, the date and the exact content of the tour are confirmed to you in writing before any payment.