The Butte is the highest natural point in Paris. Long before it became a painters' quarter, it was a village of quarrymen and millers: the gypsum dug here gave plaster of Paris its name, and wheat was ground in some thirty windmills of which almost nothing survives. Montmartre only joined the city in 1860. Until then the wine drunk here escaped the toll levied at the gates of Paris, which explains the hillside taverns and the place the vine held in the life of the village.
On foot, Montmartre is paid for in staircases. On a pedal-assist electric bike, the slopes of rue Lepic and rue Caulaincourt go by at conversation speed, and three hours cover what a walking route merely grazes. Where a street is pedestrianised, too narrow or cut by steps, you get off and push: that is built into the route, not an improvisation. The rest of the time you ride on streets open to traffic, which means you need to know how to ride a bike and to be comfortable in city traffic. Time to get the hang of the bike and a safety briefing at the start, helmet provided.
We do not publish the names of the houses we visit, and it is not a marketing tease: the exact artisans depend on the season, opening days and each one's availability, and they are confirmed to you at booking. What we describe is the type of house and what you will actually taste, at independents chosen for their craft rather than their brand. At the bakery we look for a pain de tradition française as defined by the French decree of 13 September 1993: wheat flour, water, salt, leaven or yeast, no additives and no freezing at any stage.
Four formats, indicative prices, and for each of them the tour draws on the houses described below. The Jaunt: about two and a half hours, two houses, from €140 per person, all taxes included. The Ride: about three hours, three houses, from €165 per person. The Grand Tour: about three and a half hours, four houses, from €185 per person. Private & Group: from €180 per person, billed for at least three people, more generous portions, quotes for companies. Those figures cover the tastings served by the artisans, the use of a pedal-assist bike and a helmet. They are not a firm offer: the final price, the date and the exact content of the tour are confirmed to you in writing before any payment.