Targa Saint-Martin tettwaɛraḍ ɣef uvilu, seg tebburt n waman ɣer tayeḍ

Cwiṭ ugar n kkuẓ n yikilumitren n waman di tlemmast n Paris, tibbura n waman wa deffir wa, tiqenṭar n uzzal i yimsebriden d tqenṭar i yettezzin : targa Saint-Martin d lxiḍ i nettbeɛ s wudem aḥerfi ɣef uvilu. Wander Gourmet ad yeddu yid-wen ɣef leqwaɛed, deg ugraw amecṭuḥ n semmus n yinebgawen d afellay i yal amwanes, seg uɣrum azidan n ṣṣenɛa ɣer teḥlawit i d-yesnulfa uxeddam-is.

Ṭṭfet amkan Wali ssumat

Targa ur telli d ccbaḥa kan. Tettwaɣez deg yiseggasen n 1820, tebda leqdic-is deg 1825 akken ad d-tawi aman i Paris yerna ad tessekcem ssleɛ ɣer wul n temdint : irden, ccṛab, asɣar d ufḥam. Tibbura-s n waman ttɛedilent asawen yellan gar umda n la Villette d Seine, yerna yiwen n uḥric seg webrid-is yettwadel deg lqern wis 19 akken ad d-yaweḍ fell-as ubulvaṛ. Aḥric i s-d-yezzin yeqqim aṭas n wakud d tama n temdint n yixeddamen, s yixxamen n ṣṣenɛa, s yixxamen n ṭṭbaɛa d yixzanen, uqbel ad yuɣal d yiwen seg yimḍiqen anda i d-ters tmesswit tajdidt n Paris.

Dagi i yesɛa wawal bistronomie lmeɛna-s n tidet. Seg yiseggasen n 1990, yiwet n tsuta n yimsewwiyen teǧǧa ixxamen imeqqranen n učči akken ad teldi ṭṭwabel timecṭaḥ war acettiḍ, s tebdart tewzilt d yifarisen ifernen, yerna tamnaḍt tis 10 tesnubget aṭas deg-sen. Ɣer yidis-nsen xeddmen yixeddamen n weɣrum i yesseqdacen tamtunt, wid i yessewwaḍen tikemmarin, at tḥuna n ccṛab i yesseččayen daɣen d yixeddamen n tḥlawiyin i yeɛerrḍen ayen ijdiden. Tikli tessemlal ṣṣnayeɛ-a wway gar-asent, mačči kan ad tent-tessers yiwet ɣer tama n tayeḍ.

Gar sin n yixxamen, ayen i ɣ-d-yezzin ixeddem fell-aɣ : leqwaɛed n Valmy d Jemmapes, izenqan i d-yeṣubben ɣer wezayez n République, yiwet n tzeqqa n ssuq yeddlen i d-yeqqimen seg Second Empire, lebni n ujur d uẓru s ṛebɛa n yidisan n yiwen n sbiṭar i d-yebnan s uḍahir n 1607, deg lawan n Henri IV, mazal-it iteddu ar ass-a, yiwen n uxxam n ddin aqbur i yuɣalen d amḍiq azayez, ma d ɣer ugafa, lebni amdewwer n la Villette, i yellan zik d tabburt n tewsiwin. Avilu s tallalt n trisiti yezmer ad ken-yawi ɣer yimḍiqen-agi meṛṛa deg yiwen n uzgen n wass, ayen ur nezmir ara ad t-nexdem s uḍar.

Kkuẓ n telɣiwin i wen-d-nettmuddu, yerna tikli tettawi-d i yal yiwet seg yixxamen i d-yettwaglamen ddaw-a. Tuzzya, azal n sin isragen d wezgen, sin n yixxamen, seg 140 euros i yal amdan. Tikli, azal n kraḍ isragen, kraḍ n yixxamen, seg 165 euros i yal amdan. Abrid Ameqqran, azal n kraḍ isragen d wezgen, kkuẓ n yixxamen, seg 185 euros i yal amdan. Tuslig d Ugraw, seg 180 euros i yal amdan, s lexlaṣ n kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus, s yimuren meqqren ugar ; ssuma s usuter i tkebbaniyin. Ssumat-agi ttwabedrent s tewsiwin meṛṛa, ddan deg-sent iɛraḍen i d-qeddmen yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten, aseqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask. Ssuma taneggarut, azemz d wayen meṛṛa n tikli ad awen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ.

Tikli, axxam s wexxam

Targa Saint-Martin tettwaɛraḍ ɣef uvilu, seg tebburt n waman ɣer tayeḍ

Axeddam n weɣrum i yxeddmen s tmtunt

Aɣrum azidan n wass, ama d akrwasan ama d win s wafriwen, i d-yeqqeddem bab n tḥanut deg tḥanut-is. Amwanes ad d-yessefhem tamtunt, awren d wakud ilaqen i uɣrum ad d-yali, syin ad d-yini amek i tebna tama-agi n temdint ɣef wid i yxeddmen aɣrum deg yiḍ i yixxamen n ṣṣenɛa n ṣṣbeḥ.

Axeddam n tkemmart i tt-yessewwaḍen

Tafrant i d-yeskan uxeddam n tkemmart deg tḥanut-is, yal yiwet deg wemkan-is n tewwiḍt, ayen yellan deg-s yettbeddil ɣef leḥsab n lfeṣl d wayen yellan. Zemrent ad ilint deg-s tikemmarin n uyefki azegzaw : ur ttunefkent ara i yigerdan imecṭaḥ, i tlawin s tadist d yimdanen iwumi teḍɛef tezmert n uḥader ɣef waṭṭanen : init-aɣ-d mi ara teṭṭfem amkan, ad nnadi yid-s ɣef wayen nniḍen. Dinna i nettmeslay ɣef tzeqqwin n ssuq d wamek i d-yettas učči ɣer Paris, aṭas n wakud s waman mačči s webrid.

Axeddam n weksum neɣ win iheggin učči deg uḥric, i telwiḥt

Talwiḥt ara tebḍum, ayen yellan deg-s yettbeddil ɣef leḥsab n lfeṣl d wayen yellan, i d-iheggan yerna i d-yeqqeddem uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten deg tḥanut-is. Amwanes ad d-yeḥku ɣef yixzanen n leqwaɛed d tfelluyin n ssleɛ i yettalin ar tebbura n waman.

Taḥanut n ccṛab anda tetteččem daɣen

Lkas n ccṛab n ufellaḥ n tẓurin i d-yeqqeddem bab n tḥanut n ccṛab deg tḥanut-is, neɣ tissit war ccṛab : aɛraḍ n ccṛab ur yelzim ara, yezmer ad yettwabeddel deg yal lawan, ulac tissit n ccṛab i yimeẓyanen, yerna ulac tissit uqbel ad d-nerr ɣer uvilu, imi anehheṛ n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti yessutur leɛqel am win n yal takeṛṛust nniḍen. Nettmeslay ɣef ccṛab i yekcemen ɣer Paris s targa d tebburt n tewsiwin, syin ɣef wamek yerra uḥric-agi ɣer tebdart-is ccṛab n yifellaḥen n tẓurin i d-yeggaren drus n ufus deg-s.

Axeddam n tḥlawiyin i yesnulfuyen

Taḥlawit n lfeṣl, s waṭas n tikkal d taɣuri tamaynut n yiwet taqburt, i yettwafernen akked uxeddam n tḥlawiyin yerna i d-yettunefken deg tḥanut-is. D axxam aneggaru : dinna i d-yeqqar umwanes tansiwin-is s timmad-is n uḥric-agi.

Deg tilawt

Akud: Tuzzya, azal n 2 h 30. Tikli, azal n 3 isragen. Abrid Ameqqran, azal n 3 h 30.
Ixxamen: Sin n yixxamen deg Tuzzya, kraḍ deg Tikli, kkuẓ deg Ubrid Ameqqran, ttwafernen gar wid i d-yettwaglamen sennig-a.
Temlilit: Amḍiq n temlilit yella ɣef rrif n targa, ɣer tama n lagaṛ n umitru. Ad awen-d-yettwamel akked usentem n uṭṭaf n umkan-nwen, deg yiwet n tikkelt d wayen meṛṛa n tikli.
Agraw: Alamma d semmus n yinebgawen i yal amwanes ; ma ugaren, amwanes wis sin d terbaɛt tis snat s ssumat-nni kan, ɣef leḥsab n wakud-nneɣ. Tikli tuslig neɣ n ugraw seg 180 euros i yal amdan, tettwaxelleṣ i kraḍ n yemdanen ma drus.
Tutlayin: S tefṛansist neɣ s teglizit. Tutlayin nniḍen zemrent ad ilint i yigrawen usligen, ɣef leḥsab n wakud n umwanes.

Aṭṭaf n umkan d asuter, mačči d aṭṭaf n umkan yeṭṭfen : wayen meṛṛa n tikli, azemz, amḍiq n temlilit d ssuma taneggarut ad awen-d-ttwasentmen s tira uqbel yal lexlaṣ. Ssumat timatutin i yal amdan, s tewsiwin meṛṛa, ddan deg-sent iɛraḍen d useqdec n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti d ukask.

Isteqsiyen i d-yettuɣalen ɣef tikli-agi

Amek ara d-nini belli nesɛa allirji, belli ur nezmir ara i kra n učči neɣ belli nettbeɛ aɣawas n učči ?

Init-aɣ-d mi ara d-tazenem asuter n uṭṭaf n umkan : awal-agi ur yelzim ara. Ad t-nawi uqbel tikli i yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten. Maca ur nezmir ara ad nemmet belli ulac ula d lateṛ, ur nezmir ara daɣen ad naɛhed tikli ideg ulac ayen i d-yessalayen allirji : tikli-agi tesɛa deg-s glutin, ifarisen n uyefki d tḥlawiyin, yerna iɛraḍen ttwaheggan deg yimḍiqen anda ttɛeddayen ifarisen nniḍen. Dinna, tzemrem ad testeqsim bab n tḥanut s timmad-nwen ɣef wayen i wen-d-yeqqeddem. Ma tella yiwet n allirji tewɛer, nezmer a wen-d-nini s uḥader ur teddut ara ɣer kra n yixxamen.

Anwa i iheggan ayen i nettett, anwa i t-id-yeqqeddmen ?

Wander Gourmet i d-yesuneɣ tikli yerna i kkun-yettmawasen deg-s. Yal aɛraḍ yettwaheggu yerna yettwaqeddem s ufus n uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa i kkun-yesnubguten, deg wexxam-is n uxeddim. Wander Gourmet ur iheggi ara, ur inal ara ula d yiwen n učči.

Tirza ɣer tḥanut n ccṛab telzem ?

Ala. Lkas i d-yettmuddu bab n tḥanut n ccṛab ur yelzim ara, yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab, s usuter kan, deg yal lawan. Ulac tissit n ccṛab i yimeẓyanen, yerna ulac tissit uqbel ad d-nerr ɣer uvilu : anehheṛ n uvilu s tallalt n trisiti ɣef rrif n targa yessutur leɛqel am win n yal takeṛṛust nniḍen. Tissit n ccṛab s waṭas d amihi i ṣṣeḥḥa, sewt s leɛqel.

D acu ara yeḍrun deffir usuter-inu n uṭṭaf n umkan ?

Asuter-nwen mačči d lexlaṣ. Ad d-nuɣal ɣur-wen s wakud yellan, s wemḍiq n temlilit d wayen meṛṛa n yixxamen, kullec ad d-yettwasentem s tira uqbel lexlaṣ. Imi d ameẓlu n usgunfu i d-yettunefken deg wazemz yettwasebden, azref n tuɣalin ɣer deffir n ṛbeɛṭac wussan ur yeddi ara, akken i t-id-yenna umagrad L. 221-28, 12° n code de la consommation. Tiwtilin n usefsex d usmutti llant deg tewtilin-nneɣ timatutin n uznuzu.

Iḥricen nniḍen n temdint

Le Marais Le Marais d yiwen seg yiḥricen idrusen n Paris i mazal yeṭṭef abrid-is n uqbel Haussmann : izenqan iḍeyqen, ixxamen imeqqranen usligen n lqern wis 17, d sin n leqrun n yidles wa ɣef wa i mazal ttwaɣran deg ṭṭaqan n tḥuna. Wander Gourmet ad ken-yawi ɣer dinna deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen n yixeddamen n ṣṣenɛa n uḥric, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa i tferrnem. Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint-Germain-des-Prés yewwi isem n yiwen n uxxam n ddin i d-yebnan deg lqern wis 6, ṣṣumɛa-s d yiwet seg tiqburin akk n Paris. D akal n tfellaḥt, syin d ssuq ameqqran n ssleɛ, syin d aḥric n yixeddamen n ṭṭbaɛa, n at tḥuna n yidlisen d n lqahwat n deffir ṭṭrad : akal-agi ibeddel ṣṣenɛa acḥal n tikkal. Wander Gourmet ad yeddu yid-wen ɣer dinna ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, i sin, kraḍ neɣ kkuẓ n yixxamen, ɣef leḥsab n telɣa, ɣer yixeddamen n weɣrum, n tkemmart d cikula. Montmartre Montmartre yettwaɛraḍ seg wadda am akken seg ufella. Wander Gourmet ad ken-yawi deg ugraw amecṭuḥ, ɣef uvilu s tallalt n trisiti, seg uxeddam n ṣṣenɛa ɣer wayeḍ : axeddam n weɣrum s tmtunt, axeddam n tkemmart i tt-yessewwaḍen s yiman-is, bab n tḥanut n ccṛab n uḥric, axeddam n tḥlawiyin. Aɛraḍ n ccṛab ur yelzim ara, yezmer ad yettwabeddel s tissit war ccṛab, yerna werǧin yettunefk i yimeẓyanen. Semmus n yinebgawen d afellay i yal amwanes, s tefṛansist neɣ s teglizit. Isawnen, d tallalt n trisiti ara ten-yawin, yerna yiwen n uḥric n tikli yettili s uḍar, avilu deg ufus.